Things to do

Go whale and dolphin watching from Tarifa.

Visit the Royal Andalucian School of Equestrian Art and watch the stallions performing dressage to music – almost an equestrian ballet!

Visit a water park.

The Costa de la Luz

The coast of light is Spain’s southwestern Atlantic coast, running from the southernmost point of Europe, at Tarifa, to the border with Portugal. The landscape is varied, with mountains, forests, coastal plains, wetlands and many miles of beaches with white sand backed by dunes and forests of umbrella pines. Much of this coastline is national park and, therefore, cannot be overdeveloped. There are also areas of highly protected Natural Park such as El Coto Doñana (the largest wetland area in Europe).

This coast truly lives up to its name with a pure, clear light which enhances the almost white sand and the blue waves of the Atlantic Ocean. Add to this clear blue skies and deep green umbrella pines and you have a picture of incredible vibrancy.

This coast is steeped in history: many buildings reveal the strong Moorish influence, a legacy from the Moorish occupation. Very fine examples of Moorish architecture can be seen in the Real Alcázar of Seville and the Alcázar (castle) of Jerez.

Cádiz is one of Europe’s oldest towns; it is built on an isthmus and consists of a maze of narrow streets (many cobbled) lined with elegantly aging buildings. It gives a unique sense of genteel antiquity. It has many excellent restaurants. The people of Cádiz (los gaditanos) are warm and welcoming, particularly at carnival time in February and the feria (fair) in April when “todo el mundo es gaditano” (the whole world is Gaditano). Historically, it is from Cádiz that the Spanish Armada sailed for the battle of Trafalgar, which is commemorated by a lighthouse further down the coast at the cape of Trafalgar.

Slightly inland is the Moorish hill town of Medina Sidonia, the Dukes of which led the Spanish Armada. Another pueblo blanco (white town) is Vejer de la Frontera. Built on a steep hill with panoramic views, the old town is a maze of very narrow streets. The steep cliffs provide updraughts used by many birds such as griffon vultures.

Towards Tarifa, in the Straits of Gibraltar Natural Park, is the bay of Bolonia with its breathtaking beach backed by a huge sand dune. Bolonia is the site of Baelo Claudia, which has been excavated to reveal the most comprehensive remains of a Roman town in the Iberian Peninsula. With its basilica, theatre, temple and fish salting factories, Baelo Claudia provides a fascinating insight into Roman times. Admission is free to EU citizens.

This area of Spain is famous for sherry. There are many varieties, ranging from fino and manzanilla (both very dry) to moscatel (very sweet), and all are drunk very well chilled – we have been told to chill our glasses first in the freezer. There are numerous vineyards and bodegas including Terry, Osborne and González Byass (producers of Tío Pepe and Croft). The larger bodegas in Jerez and El Puerto de Santa María offer guided tours (prices vary, some are free). In Chiclana there are many small bodegas where you can sample the local sherry (known as fino); some of these bodegas also sell a selection of tapas.

Andalucía has many resident birds and also attracts many migrants. The mountains play host to many large birds of prey such as griffon vultures and various eagles. The salt marshes have flamingos, spoonbills, black-backed stilts, green shanks and many other waders. There are also hoopoes and bee-eaters which can sometimes be seen a short way along the drovers’ track from Villa Margarita. At times the bee-eaters fly over the villa, announced by their distinctive calls. We regularly have Sardinian warblers in our garden and often see storks or griffon vultures circling overhead.

Chiclana has a large area of salt marshes, which provide an ideal habitat for many species of bird. There is a visitors’ centre.

Along the coast between Sanlúcar and Tarifa are various viewpoints from which to watch the resident and migratory birds.

Chiclana is situated on the river Iro. The town centre contains many churches and convents. There is a traditional food market (la plaza), which sells fresh local produce. We can be sure the fish is fresh because on Mondays, or after a storm, all the fish stalls are closed. The plaza is the best place to buy the local speciality of chicharrones (fried chunks of pork). On leaving the market there is a churrería where you can buy churros (long fritters made with flour and water), which can be taken to the local café and dunked in coffee or hot chocolate. The churrería usually closes before noon. The market is open until about 1 – 1.30pm Monday to Saturday.

Chiclana has an open-air market selling clothes, shoes, gifts and bags on Tuesday mornings.

The convent of Jesús Nazareno is famous for its almond cake, which can be purchased in the mornings. This is a closed order, so the nuns use a wooden turntable in the foyer from which to sell the cakes. They remain hidden.

There are many beaches nearby, ranging from the unspoilt white sands of Roche to La Barrosa, with its promenade lined with tapas bars and restaurants.